Holland Lops and Mini Plush Lops are a dwarf breed. Meaning, they are the smallest of rabbits. While a lot of online information may be applicable to the "general" rabbit population, special consideration needs to be taken when applying any of that to your tiny pet. Always ask your breeder first!
I have compiled a list of information to the questions I am frequently asked below, but do not hesitate to contact me if you have further questions.
I have compiled a list of information to the questions I am frequently asked below, but do not hesitate to contact me if you have further questions.
LITTER BOX TRAINING
Did you know rabbits can be litter box trained? Rabbits are very hygienic and tidy animals. They like to keep themselves and their space clean. Our babies have started litter box training before they go to their new homes, but transitioning to a new space can be stressful and can sometimes cause a hiccup in litter training. Here's what to do to stay on the right track:
HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR LITTER BOX
I like to use the 13 liter commercial bus tubs found on Amazon. They are inexpensive, easy to clean, and the perfect size for your bunny. Keep in mind when you are choosing a litter box, pick one that is low enough your baby bunny can hop into it and big enough for when they are full grown.
- Be consistent! Rabbits are very smart animals. The more diligent you are about "defining their space", the faster they will learn. It can take a few days to a few weeks to properly train your bunny depending on how much time you dedicate to teaching them. I recommend spending a couple days keeping your bunny close and reinforcing proper potty habits by following the tips below. It is time well spent and will help you bond with your new BFF.
- Start small! Until they get the hang of potty training, keep their area small and gradually increase it as they learn.
- There are lots of scents in our rabbitry making it easy to sniff out where business is done. Moving to a new home is a blank slate for them to fill in how they wish. You may pick a spot you think is good and find they have a different idea of where to go. Don't fret! Move the litter box to where they are choosing to go or add an extra box.
- Rabbits poop and pee where they eat. Keep their food in their litter box. Their water does not need to be in there, but their hay and pellets should be.
- Rabbits won't eat hay they have peed on so make sure they always have fresh hay. A hay basket is a great way to keep hay clean and avoid waste.
- If they poop outside their litter box, pick it up and put it in their box. I do not recommend picking up cecotropes with your hands! Refer to the "Scoop on Poop" section of our 'Welcome Home' page to learn more.
- If they pee outside their litter box, use a paper towel to soak up the pee, put the pee-soaked paper towel in the litter box, and clean the soiled area to remove the scent and prevent further accidents. If you don't remove the scent, they will continue to pee in this area. Refer to the "Healthy Rabbit Pee" section of our 'Welcome Home!' page to learn more.
- Make a cleaning solution using a 1:1 ratio of water and distilled white vinegar. Bunnies are sensitive to smells and chemicals, but this solution is bunny safe and is a fabulous cleaner. Make sure to spot test the solution first to ensure it won't cause any damage to the surface. DO NOT USE BLEACH OR OTHER HARSH CHEMICALS AROUND YOUR BUNNIES!
- While litter box training, it is best to dump soiled material then wipe out the tub with a dry paper towel. Rinse with water if necessary, or spot clean with the vinegar solution, but keep some of that scent around to reinforce good bathroom etiquette.
- The more the merrier! Use multiple litter boxes if your rabbit has a larger space or when they are free roaming, They should have access to a litter box at all times to avoid accidents.
HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR LITTER BOX
I like to use the 13 liter commercial bus tubs found on Amazon. They are inexpensive, easy to clean, and the perfect size for your bunny. Keep in mind when you are choosing a litter box, pick one that is low enough your baby bunny can hop into it and big enough for when they are full grown.
Horse Pelletized Bedding available from Tractor Supply is what I use to "line" our litter boxes. It is safe for bunnies, inexpensive, and helps eliminate odors. Use a thin layer to completely cover the bottom of the tub. Pellets will soak up any liquid waste and breakdown when they get wet.
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Bedding pellets are hard when dry. Use a plastic or stainless steel grate over to protect your bunny's feet. The Stainless Steel option is nice because it can go in the dishwasher and is chew proof, but the plastic ones are cheaper and work just as well. Both are available on Amazon. |
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FREE ROAMING
One of the many things I love about bunnies, is they can free roam. It is highly entertaining to watch them run around doing binkies and exploring. Just like with babies, you will need to "bunny proof" your space.
- Most important thing is to isolate any electrical wires or cords, so your bunny doesn't chew through any live wires. Use physical barriers or cord wrap to eliminate these hazards.
- Pick up any small items your bunny might try to chew on.
- Your bunny might look for small spaces to "hide" in. Block off any areas where you don't want them to go like under the couch or behind furniture. Bunnies are little Houdinis. If their head will fit through so will the rest of them.
- Make sure they have access to a litter box with fresh hay, clean water, and toys to keep them entertained.
- Never leave your bunny to free roam unsupervised.
- Be sure to have your camara on standby to document all the cuteness!!
LIVING SPACE
As enjoyable as it is to have your bunny running around playing, they still need a space of their own. Rabbits are den animals and like to have a safe space to themselves. Here are some guidelines to consider:
FLOORING
Whichever set up you choose, make sure the flooring is comfortable for your bunny to walk on so they don't get sore hocks and that it is easy to clean.
- A minimum of 8 square feet is recommended for your bunny's living space. There are a bunch of different options and setups you can use. An extra-large dog crate works well with an attachable playpen to expand their space. When you are not home, the crate is big enough for them to move about and lie comfortably and then the door can easily be opened to give them access to the play area while still keeping them confined. I like the MidWest Pet iCrate Fold & Carry Double Door Crate. Don't throw the included divider away! It can easily be used to add a second level or "shelf" for your bunny to lounge on!
FLOORING
Whichever set up you choose, make sure the flooring is comfortable for your bunny to walk on so they don't get sore hocks and that it is easy to clean.
- Baby bunnies may have a hard time walking on slippery surfaces. If you do use a pad or soft bottom, I recommend it be larger than the enclosure so they can't pull up or chew on the ends and that it is machine washable. Do NOT use highly scented detergents or fabric softeners!
- Sheet vinyl is another great option. You can buy pre-cut pieces from Lowe's or Home Depot. It is inexpensive and easy to clean with the vinegar/water solution. Again, you want a piece larger than your enclosure so they can chew on the ends.
- Amazon sells a variety of waterproof pet playpen bottoms configured for different sized and shaped enclosure types and these work well too!
VETERINARY CARE
When choosing a vet for your bunny, it is critical to find one who specializes in rabbits. There are a lot of well-meaning vets who will see rabbits, but do not understand their unique physiology.
There is a great 'rabbit savvy' vet in the Louisville area who used to breed rabbits and still owns a few. His name is Dr. Juston Schmidtke and he is at Goshen Animal Clinic. I highly recommend him should you need assistance.
(502) 228-1827
Another great option is All Pets Veterinary Center off Dorsey Lane in Louisville, KY.
(502) 384-0551
Rabbits are prey animals and they hide illness well. By the time symptoms become visible, time is critical. Please do not wait to seek care! For general concerns or emergency situations, do not hesitate to contact me. I am always happy to assist. While I have extensive experience and knowledge, I am not a vet. Ultimately, the decision is yours, but I am here to help 24/7.
There is a great 'rabbit savvy' vet in the Louisville area who used to breed rabbits and still owns a few. His name is Dr. Juston Schmidtke and he is at Goshen Animal Clinic. I highly recommend him should you need assistance.
(502) 228-1827
Another great option is All Pets Veterinary Center off Dorsey Lane in Louisville, KY.
(502) 384-0551
Rabbits are prey animals and they hide illness well. By the time symptoms become visible, time is critical. Please do not wait to seek care! For general concerns or emergency situations, do not hesitate to contact me. I am always happy to assist. While I have extensive experience and knowledge, I am not a vet. Ultimately, the decision is yours, but I am here to help 24/7.
SPAYING AND NEUTERING
A question I get asked a lot is should I spay/neuter my bunny. Every bunny and every situation is different and the decision to spay/neuter should be made based on what is best for you and your bunny. I am happy to discuss the pros and cons and assist with after care, but I want to highlight some critical insights:
- Bunnies have high metabolisms and unique digestive systems. They cannot abstain from food or water for any extended length of time. If you have a vet who advises you to have your bunny fast prior to surgery DO NOT do this!!!! I would advise you to not let them operate and to find a different vet. Any rabbit savvy vet would not tell you to do this.
- Because of their high metabolisms, pain management can be difficult. Make sure you discuss this with your vet prior to surgery and have a plan in place to make sure you administer the correct dosage of pain medication and know what to do if you need more. They may only give you a small amount of pain meds to go home with or possibly none at all. You want to be sure they give you at least several days worth. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Rabbits heal quickly but won't eat if they are in pain and a rabbit who won't eat is an emergency situation.
- Your bunny should be eating and drinking shortly after surgery. pretty much as soon as they are awake enough to do so. If they are not, this could be an indication they are in pain and should be addressed immediately! Do not wait!
- You don't want to over medicate, but you don't want to under medicate either. An overmedicated bunny will not be alert enough to eat, but a bunny in pain won't eat either. It's a delicate balance you want to understand and be comfortable with beforehand.
- Baby onsies are great to put on your bunny to keep them from being able to access their incision. You should make sure you find one that fits and make any necessary modifications so they can still use the restroom but not be able to pull at stitches. Get your bunny used to wearing their onsie PRIOR to surgery. Start with adjusting the fit, and then slowly increase the amount of time they wear it so it's a familiar thing for them. This can help you ensure adequate fit, address any issues, make adjustments, and reduce added stress.
- If you do decide to spay/neuter, do it at a time when you are available to closely monitor your bunny for at least the first few days. They will need a lot of TLC while recovering.
- Monitor the incision sight closely. Rabbit puss is thick like toothpaste and not runny like human puss. You should watch for any swelling, bumps that form below the incision, redness, or abnormal behavior and contact your vet immediately if you notice any of these symptoms.
- Bunnies have high metabolisms and unique digestive systems. They cannot abstain from food or water for any extended length of time. If you have a vet who advises you to have your bunny fast prior to surgery DO NOT do this!!!! I would advise you to not let them operate and to find a different vet. Any rabbit savvy vet would not tell you to do this.
- Because of their high metabolisms, pain management can be difficult. Make sure you discuss this with your vet prior to surgery and have a plan in place to make sure you administer the correct dosage of pain medication and know what to do if you need more. They may only give you a small amount of pain meds to go home with or possibly none at all. You want to be sure they give you at least several days worth. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Rabbits heal quickly but won't eat if they are in pain and a rabbit who won't eat is an emergency situation.
- Your bunny should be eating and drinking shortly after surgery. pretty much as soon as they are awake enough to do so. If they are not, this could be an indication they are in pain and should be addressed immediately! Do not wait!
- You don't want to over medicate, but you don't want to under medicate either. An overmedicated bunny will not be alert enough to eat, but a bunny in pain won't eat either. It's a delicate balance you want to understand and be comfortable with beforehand.
- Baby onsies are great to put on your bunny to keep them from being able to access their incision. You should make sure you find one that fits and make any necessary modifications so they can still use the restroom but not be able to pull at stitches. Get your bunny used to wearing their onsie PRIOR to surgery. Start with adjusting the fit, and then slowly increase the amount of time they wear it so it's a familiar thing for them. This can help you ensure adequate fit, address any issues, make adjustments, and reduce added stress.
- If you do decide to spay/neuter, do it at a time when you are available to closely monitor your bunny for at least the first few days. They will need a lot of TLC while recovering.
- Monitor the incision sight closely. Rabbit puss is thick like toothpaste and not runny like human puss. You should watch for any swelling, bumps that form below the incision, redness, or abnormal behavior and contact your vet immediately if you notice any of these symptoms.